Energy Efficiency Advice Page

A few hints that you do not usually find elsewhere: This is intended to be used in addition to the advice given in the High power bill problem solving page and at the EECA (Energy Efficiency Conservation Authority) site www.eeca.govt.nz

Lighting:

Halogen Down lights:

Use 20 Watt lamps, these are just as bright as the 50 Watt lamps over short distances, so in most applications will work very well. They generate less heat so the fitting (and most often lamps) last much longer. The transformers and electronic transformers will be less stressed and work well with the lower wattage. Note: Some dimmable transformers may require a minimum wattage to dim properly.
If you have old fittings - As the old lamps blow, replace the old lamps with 20 watt lamps. It is ok to have a mixture of different wattage lamps, the new 20 Watt lamps will look just a bright as the old 50 Watt lamps! New fittings Specify that you want 20 watt lamps supplied NOT 50 watt lamps, even if you have to pay slightly more, the savings in power and fitting life will well and truly off-set the extra cost!

Halogen Flood Lights:

Use 300 Watt lamps in the 500 Watt fittings you will get very close to the same brightness (so much so that you cannot normally see the difference). The light fitting will have a far longer useful lifespan and better lamp life. Ensure the lamp holder contacts are clean when replacing the lamp.

Fluorescent Fittings:

Keep the fitting, diffuser and lamps clean. When replacing the lamps, replace the starter at the same time (non electronic fittings). The cost of the starter is much cheaper than lamps and will reduce the lamp life if not working properly.
Stop those tubes from glowing! If the tube is not lit but glowing at the ends of the tube, then remove the tube and starter, this will stop excessive power wastage and reduce the stress on the fitting which can result in reduced fitting life and extra maintenance costs.
Use Triphospher lamps fortunately these are now being supplied as standard for common lamp sizes. Select the correct colour lamp e.g. 840 for offices or softer lighting 865 for display or workshop lighting (brighter white and more natural light but too harsh for paperwork).

Outside light fittings:

Use Energy saver lamps these are now small enough to fit in most fittings and extend the light fitting life by keeping the heat down.

Light Sensors:

If light sensors false trigger, get it repositioned or replaced (if the sensor is above or too close to the lamp, the heat from the lamps can falsely re-trigger the sensor). The modern sensor is cheap but like the old sensors only have a short lifespan, especially when exposed to the elements.

Long use Lights: - e.g. halls and areas where the lights are used for long periods:

Use energy saver lamps these extend the life of the fittings by reducing heat. The power saved offsets the expense of getting the energy saver lamp (normally the lamps will pay for itself about 3 times over).

High Bay Lighting:

The old metal halide lighting which was considered to be very efficient is now superseded by " High Five" High bay lights. The replacement cost is very quickly recovered. To check out the many advantages of using these lights check out www.highfivelighting.co.nz

The following items are an brief summary, for detailed information go to EECA

http://www.eeca.govt.nz

Heating:

Insulate! Keep the doors shut and curtains drawn once the sun has gone down!
Wear thermal clothing, it is light and comfortable and means that you can be very comfortable with a lower temperature. If you keep the temperature slightly lower, the savings in energy use can be surprising.
Use air conditioning (if possible) as the main source of heating but turn if off or lower the heating set point when you are not in. Set the air conditioning to heat only (otherwise it can start cooling when you change the temerature or when the sun comes out etc). If the outside temperature is very cold use a fireplace (if you have one) instead as the air conditioning is not as efficent when it is extremely cold.
Exercise, you will feel warmer as well as being healthier.

Standby Loading:

Do not leave appliances on stand-by unless they need to be. Turn the computer off at the wall if you are not using it (most modern computers are only in standby when you power them down).
Turn off your TV unless you are watching it! (While it does not use much power like most things it is the cumulative effect that makes a big difference).
Security System batteries can drain lots of power if too old and faulty, get the system serviced if it has not been done regularly.

Water Heaters:

Check the overflow pipe for water a very small leakage may be present if the cylinder is heating a big quantity of water, but this should be occasional and minimal.
A shower uses less hot water than a bath (unless the shower has a very high water flow etc).
Check the water flow of the shower, if it is too high you will waste heaps of hot water. Use less pressure when having a shower and keep the time shorter. Do not have the hot water running unless you are in it!
If the hot water tap is a long way from the hot water cylinder, use a kettle to heat the water directly for washing up etc. Always fill the kettle using the cold tap.
Dishwashers heat their own water, turn off the hot water feed to it.
Some washing machines heat their own water, keep the hot water turned off unless the machine is close to the hot water cylinder. Use all temperature washing powders with tepid water, cold water powders usually do not work well and can be hard on the washing machine and clothes.
WH Temp

> 60 ºC at water cylinder otherwise risk of growing legionella etc.
< 55 ºC at tap. Full thickness skin burns for an adult will take about 5 seconds at 60ºC, 1 second at 70ºC, this time is less for children and elderly!

Shower flow 6 - 10 litres per minute - If a one litre container fills in less than 6 seconds then the flow is greater than 10 litres per minute. Flow rate in Litres /per minute can be measured by dividing the time (in seconds) taken to fill a 1 litre container by 60.

Refrigerator and Freezers:

Do not operate the fridge / freezer too cold.
The temperature in the fridge should average 2° C - 6° C.
The temperature in the freezer should be -16° C - -20° C
Allow hot foods to cool to room temperature before placing into the freezer compartment.
The door gasket should seal to the cabinet when the door is closed.
Keep door opening times to a minimum.
Locate the unit out of direct sunlight and away from any heating appliances (i.e. cookers, dishwashers).
Do not block air vents, this will cause the unit to run for longer, and therefore use more energy.
When the freezer compartment is filled to capacity, the food mass will help maintain freezer temperature when the doors are being opened.
Fridge run times can be 50-60% of the time in winter and as high as 70-80% in summer, however this varies between models and conditions.
When not being used to store food for long periods e.g. a holiday house, the fridge can be turned off (It will not hurt the fridge either way, leaving it on or off, though if turning off, ensure the door is not fully shut, otherwise the moisture causes mold etc, and the fridge will get very smelly as well as unhygienic). If the decision is made to leave the fridge on, it will still be more efficient than usual as the door will not be opened regularly.

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